Choosing Your Kit
Before You Start Building
Getting Started
PAMPA

This web page is really under construction. More to come and always expanding.


 

During the last three winters, I have taken to spending the long winter nights, coming up with an interesting unique projects to work on. This is Stuntress. It's a Joe Adamusko design. Not many Stuntresses around. She was scratch built from plans from PAMPA. ( PAMPA you say. Well if you are into control line flying and not a member of PAMPA you simply are missing a very valuable resource for your hobby. Like to find out more about PAMPA - click here . To return to this page you'll have to use the return function on your brower. Anyhow back to Stuntress. She was my 1999 project. The eliptical wings were a challenge but I got to tell you she looks great on the ends of the lines. Anyhow --- finish --- all Brodak . The paint job replicates Voodoo -- a Reno air racer. Paul Winter if you are out there -- mine looks better. She sports a GMA Jett 50 engine with a Windy U pipe. Oh Happiness is all I can say. The dolt holding the ship by the way is ..... me.

Model airplanes that are built for flying come in two basic styles, The Profile airplane has a flat body, much like the small, balsa wood gliders that have been flowen by young boys and girls for many, many years. The Built-up Fuselage airplane has a body design similar to the body you would find on an airplane built for display.

The Profile airplane is the best choice for a beginner, for several reasons. First, it is easier and quicker to build. Second, it is easier to learn to fly. And third ( and most important ), a profile is easier to repair. As you begin learning to fly, wrecks are almost inevitable, so having a plane that is easy to repair and get ready for the next flights is an important point to consider. Also select a profile airplane that has strong structural members within the wing design. As a trainer series the FLITE STREAK line-up is really really hard to beat.

As you select a kit for your first control-line model airplane, look for an outfit that has a .35 size engine. This engine has plenty of lifting power and is a slower engine. Since your airplane won't be travelling fast, you will have more time to aquaint yourself with the feel of the airplane and the feel of flying ... without the pressure of excessive speed. Remember, when an airplane is travelling faster, you have less time to react and adjust. Also the .35 engine is a popular size engine that will fit a great many different airplanes.

I'll probably get into a lot of hot water by making this suggestion. If you are considering a .35 engine for your first plane consider selecting a good old Fox 35 stunt. Yes there are lots of better .35 ( and I use this expression loosely --- I have five of then ), is that parts are readily available. Whereas, with OS, TT, etc., break off the muffler, damage the crank, shear off engine lugs etc. etc., yep they can be ordered and yep they'll come maybe in a month or two. Whereas with a Fox 35, need a muffler, engine body, head etc. in as little as a week and you are up and flying again. Save the OS, TTs, Double Stars, Stalkers, PA's and Jetts when you feel confortable in the air. In my fleet I have Jetts(2), Thundertiger (4 ), OS 35 ( 2 ), Magmun (1), Double Start (1 ) and they all have there own distinctive advantages, traits and qualities, but got to tell you I enjoy the Fox 35s in my Galaxy, Fancy Pants, Ringmaster and Streaks as well. Two of the foxes where purchased back in the 70's when I first got into CL planes and they still run like new.

The downsides to the trusty old fox ( and you really have to wonder if the downsides are valid --- cause this engine is celebrating its 50th year of production ), is a long break in period ( about a gallon of fuel ), they vibrate a bit more ( but this can be solved by building a proper engine crutch and nose in the first place ), and a requirement of all castor fuel, and some claim have finiky needle valves to adjust. But when it comes to replacement parts, factory assistance, and engine weight they are hard to beat. Just a real nice starter engine for the beginner.

Once you have picked a kit, we recommend you prepare your work surface. The best work surface is both flat and stable. Purchase a sheet of glass that is at least 3' X 4' and 1/4" thick. And a piece of drywall of that size. ( I use simple ceiling tiles myself. )

Place the glass on your work area, and put the drywall or ceiling tile on top of the glass. The glass will protect the surface underneath and give the drywall/ceiling tile support. The drywall/ceiling tile ready accepts pins to holding assemblies together.

The nice feature of all Brodak kits is there unique level bar system for the wing construction. I've always ended up with absolutely flat and level wings when using this system. A wing jig as nice as they are really aren't need with the Brodak level bar system. Just a nice touch to their kits.

Also with each Brodak kit, is full sized plans and a illustrated multipage instruction manual packed full of tips and information. Ideal for the new flyer.

Brodak Butyrate Dope Products are another step in our continuing effort to provide the finest materials.

Brodak Butyrate Dope Products are specially formulated by Randolf Products, a leading manufacturer of paints since 1932. Randolf Products believes in the same high standards of quality and service that are Brodk trademakes. Brodak Butryrate Dope comes in 34 brilliant colors, as well a clear dope, thinner, primer and rejuvenator. We have the largest selection of colors on the market today, and their are 16 new colors in the development stage. Our even flow makes your work easier in the finishing stages. Our rich pigments give our colors exceptional brilliance and better coverage, meaning fewer coats and lighter finish weight.

Safety First

As you begin the process of finishing your airplane, remember that dust and paint fumes can be very dangerous. We always recommend that you work in a well ventilated area, so that there is no build up of dust or fumes.

Product Compatibility

Remember that Brodak Butyrate Dope Products have been developed to work together. Their chemical compositions are compatible and give the best results. However, these products are NOT compatible with products from other manufacturers. Do not intermix Brodak dope products with other products.

A Note About Using Thinner

When you use thinner, remember that many factors affect the final quality. For example, if you are spraying you probably would use a 50-50 ratio. But, if the temperature of your work area, the humidity, the length of hoses and the pressure of your compressor will all affect the final product. Most hobbiest use between 25 and 30 PSI when you spray. The lower the pressure, if your spray equipment is capable, the better. We suggest that, as you work, you keep track of the temperature, the humidity, the pressure you used, the thinner ratio, and the results. Then you can adjust the pressure and the thinner ratio to get optimum results under varying conditions. If you are in doubt, remeber that too much thinner is better than not enough.

If you are using a brush, you may want to use something less than 50-50. The kind of brush will effect the final product, as will as temperature and humidity, the stroking motion that you use, and the speed at which you work. We recommend that, after you have picked a trail ratio for your thinner, you paint one stroke on a scap material, when watch to see what happens to that stroke. If the dope doesn't flow, that means it is drying in place and you didn't use enough thinner. When your dope flows evenly without running, you have the correct ratio. keep a record of the ratio, the temperature and humdity conditions, the kind of brush used, and the results, so that you can achieve the best results everytime.

Using Retarder

Retarder changes the speed at which the dope dries. After you have sprayed or brushed a color or clear dope onto your airplane, if you see that the dope is blushing or blotching that means the dope is drying to fast in places and not drying at a relatively uniform rate. To correct the problem, substitute some of the thinner with retarder. Start out with 10%, but not more than 20% retarder. Do not put this mix over canopies :::::::: the will melt.

Blushing of color and clear coats is related to the humidity conditions during the period of painting. The higher the relative humidity is, the more chance for blushing. ( Humidity trapped in the dope because of rapid drying ). So keep an eye on the humidity if over 50% its time to consider a bit of retarded and more as the humdity and temperature goes up.

Using Brodak Primer.

Primer is the thickest of the dope products sold by Brodak. We recommend that you start with a mixture of 2/3 thinner and 1/3 primer, then adjust the ratio depending on how thick or watery the mixture is. Again temperature, primer ratio, humidity etc. will affect results.

Using Brodak Rejuvenator

Brodak rejuventator should be used to renew old and cracked dope finishes. Clean the area thoroughly, then spray or brush the area with Rejunenator to restore the finish and remove all brittleness.

Rejuvenator also can be used to make patches, seal cracks, and return finishes that have dried out over the years to like-new conditions. Brodak Rejuvenator contain extra plasticizers and helps prolong the airplanes lifespan.

Thin the Rejuvenator 50-50 with Brodak thinner and spray at 25 to 30 PSI. If you are using a brush, you may want a ratio that is less than 50-50.

 

Finishing The Airplane

Once you have completed all the construction and are ready to finish the airplane, sand the entire plane using 320 grit sandpaper. Make sure to sand off all of the corners and joints where the pieces go together so that all of the joints blend together. When sanding use a sanding block so in essence you end up removing the high spots. Wipe off all of the sanddust and the dirt. Let you hands and touch more so than sight along tell you where remedial work still needs to be done. Candling of the areas to light also will tell you where more attention is needed. When you are happy with your efforts wipe all of the dust and debris off the framework.

Using a mix of 60 percent thinner and 40 percent clear dope, brush a minimum of three coats of clear on the entire airplane, waiting between coats until the dope is dry. After the last coat is completely dry, ( I usually let dry over night with about 1 1/2 hours between coats ( depends on the temperature ) sand the entire air frame using 400 grit sandpaper. Make sure that you round off all of the corners and sharp edges on the wing assembly, especially the wing ribs ( and tail ribs ) so that there are no sharp edges that my tear the silkspan. Wipe off any sawdust or sanding material. ( Note : These first few light thinned coats are providing two important functions ( it locks in dimensional stability of the wood, begins to fill in any wood pores and begins to provide a substrait base to attach the silkspan.

Apply another coat of thinned clear dope to the entire airplane and let dry.

To apply silkspan to the wing and tail as needed, cut the silspan to the proper size. ( I like to over size about 1" in all dimensions ). Then wet the silkspan with water or weak windex solution. Not to wet, just enough to wet the surface thoroughly. Then pull the silkspan over the edge of an old towel . The towel will remove all of the excess water. Lay the silspan in place, smooting it out to get out all of the wrinkles. Brush on a coat of thinned clear dope around the perimter of each wing. Work the dope with the brush ( I like to use my fingers ) to get smooth adhesion. Do the entire wing top and bottom, to prevent wraping. Once the clear dope and silspan are dry on the wing and tail, we highly recommend that you cover the entire airplane with silkspan ( the fuselag that is ), cut sections to fit, and paint the sections into place using clear dope. Again, I like to rub the silkspan and dope into place with my finger tips. The silkspan will fill in any imperfections or gaps and will give you a better finshed product. ( The silkspan provides an incredible amount of strength as well ). Try to keep the overlaps of silspan as small as possible on the fuse.

Brush three or four coats of clear dope on the entire air plane, then brush on at least six coats of clear around the perimeters of all the open bay areas on the wing and tail that arecovered with silkspan. The reason for six coats is to build up the perimeter areas so that, when you sand the wings, you won;t tear the silkspan or sand thorough it.

After the clear dope is completely dry ( at least overnight ) brush on two coats of primer. Let the primer dry to touch between the coats. Do not sand between the coats.

Once the second coat of primer is applied, let it dry thoroughly before you begin sanding. Use 300 grit sand paper. As you begin to sand, the primer should powder, not peel. If the surface of the primer begins to ball up or flake, that means the primer is not completely dry. Your goal in sanding is to almost remove all of the primer, leaving only enough to fill in any of the small depressions or pin holes in the clear dope surface. Take your time, review your work critically. If you find areas that require some attention simply apply some more primer to those areas and resand when dry. Be picky, it pays off.

While we recommend that you spray the applications of dope from this point on you can use a brush.Apply two more light coats of primer, letting them dry to the touch between coats. When the second coat is completely dry, wet sand using 400 grit paper. Again your objective is to remove as much of the primer, creating a smoother surface with each step.

Apply two thin coats of Brodak Silver, letting the dope dry to the touch between coats. Let the second coat dry overnight so that it is completely dry, then wet sand all of the surfaces using 400 grit sand paper. As you are sanding, the surface will become dull and any depressions or low spots will remain shiny. ( That's good cause this shows you where the low areas area --- leave the silver in the low areas ). When finished sanding wipe the entire plane to remove all the dust.

Sanding Silver. This gives you an idea of what to expect. This is what one of my Eliminators
looked after the first coat of silver was sanded off. Note: There is
not much left on the ship. That's the objective. Its filling in the low spots with out
to much weight gain. I got lucky with this ship. I ended out silver only twice.

Use automoble-grade spot putty to fill in low spots. ( We recommend that you use the red puty because it has a longer drying time ). Sand off all the excess puty when dry so that the low spot is filled and the putty blends into the rest of the surface. Note: If you have larger depressions or holes, use microfil to fill them in. Automotive putty only has strength to fill small holes. As the puty dries it will shrink, so take your time ... all plenty of drying time before sanding ... cause you'll be doing it again. ( Tip. If you find you have large dents on the bare balsa wood ( they happen ) instead of filling , consider, taking a small spronge, soak in hot water and wring out completely, then softly rub on the damaged balsa area --- magically most of the dent will spring out after a few minutes. This saves weight --- afterall puty and filler weighs and your overall objective is to add as little extra weight as possible. ) Repeat the filling process as many times until you are happy with the results.

Spray the entire plane with a coat of light silver and let dry overnight. ( Yes, I know again ). But now the ship should start taking on a mirror like finish. What few impections remaining will clearly show up. Now wet sand the entire airplane with 600 paper. Let the surfaces dry completely. If you find some areas that still require some attention --- selectiely spray those areas with silver, dry and resand.

If you are happy , now comes the fun part. The color and trim coats. But before you apply the color coats we would recommend that you apply a light blocker coat of white or silver. Let dry overnight and gently wet sand with 600 paper. Just enough to roughen up the surface. Don't sand through. Let the surfaces dry completely. The white or silver blocker coat will make your colors brighter and more vibrant and it cuts down on the require quantity of color required. ( Color paint with its pigments are heavy weight wise by nature --- and remeber your objective is to add as little weight as possible. ) If you are using a light color, you may require to apply two coats. If you are using a darker color, one coat probably will be sufficient. Don't get impatient, sometimes two light coats are far better than one heavy coat.

After your final color coats are applied and are thoroughly dry, add your trim, lettering, decals, ink, etc. If you are using decals, be sure to read the directions on the decals so that you don't destroy them.

After all the materials have been applied and are completely dry, apply six light coats of clear dope to the entire airplane, letting each coat dry to the touch between coats. Let the airplane dry for at least two weeks, then wet sand the airplane using 1200 or 1500 sandpaper that give the surfaces a dull look. USe Gorham's silver polish to buff out the antire airplane and bring back the high gloss. When you have finished, your surfaces should have a deep shine, and all of the surfaces should be so smooth that you cannot feel any of the decals under the clear dope.

A buffed out dope and silkspan finish is a labor of love. The above is just one way to achieve this type of finish. There are variations of the above theme. If you are truly interested in a hand rubbed buffed out dope/silkspan finish and wish to GREATLY improve your silks --- Take my advice --- Windy Urtnowski --- who I call my MODEL MASTER -- has available a collection of Video tapes ranging from basic building/finshing and up to advanced levels. Each tape is packed full of useable information. If you are interested in finding out more about his tapes visit his web site.

Brodak Candy Colors are highly concentrated with translucent pigment dies. The use of candy colors can lead to some very exciting and effective paint jobs but there are a few items that must be considered.

The color of the base coat can radically effect the color value of the Candy color. Typically, I'll take a piece of file folder card board and shoot a couple base coats in a zebra pattern. ( Typical colors I use are gold, silver and white ). Allow this to dry overnight. Then using the Candy color, spray on a uniform layer of candy 90 deg. to the base coats. ( Ie one pass, then two pass and three pass etc. with a bit of drying time between the passes. ) You'll be surprised the effects you can create.

As an example.

With a white base coat, one pass of candy blue will provide an interesting light robins egg blue. Two passes same color value of blue but darker and darker with three passes.

With silver as a base coat. One past will provide a deeper bolder blue. Two passes darker and even darker with three passes.

With gold as a base cost. One pass will provide a light aquamarine blue. Two passes darker aquamarine blue. Three passes are rich three dimensional aquamarine blue.

Base coats with candy colors. Spend the time. Get the base coat and substrate as perfect as possible and give it a sufficient time to dry and gas out completely. I like to allow at least a couple days to allow the base coat to gas out completely.

When applying Candy colors. More light coats are better than one nuken coat. So be patient. I like to use a minimum of three passes. Horizontal, verticle and then at 45. This gets rid of striping. I like to wait a full hour between the passes. I just worry about melting down into the substrate. ( Been there/done that myself and its impossible to fix).

Never .... repeat .... never .... sand a Candy color.

Applying clear coat. Candies like color coats should be protected with clear coat to provide extra protection and to really make the Candy sparkle, dance and shine. When applying your clear coats, use the same precautions as spraying letraset and decals. Spray the first couple of light coats on dry. Spraying the clear on too wet will simply melt the candy into the clear, which I guess isn't to bad, but when you start the final sand out just remember you'll end up removing much of your candy and you won;t be a happy camper. Take your time. I've found it best to leave the Candy to dry for at leat a couple days. Then spray the first three or four coats on dry ( all capstrips, ink lines, edges and extra coat r two selectievly) , allowing at least an hour to gas off before the next coat. Then allow at least a day to dry. Then gently wet sand with 1200 or 1500 wet to dull out and level. ( Watch all the edges though ). Then follow up with 3 light wet coats. Alow to gas off for at leat a day. Then wet sand and buff out.

Getting Started

Once you have purchased your new Brodak Kit and have a work area, we recommend that you do several things before you actually begin building.

• Take the time to study the plans and closely read the entire instructions.
• One your first airplanes decide on making a commitment to take your time and build accurately. Don't worry about a high quality level of finishing on your first ships.
• Take the pieces out of the box and match them up with the plans, making sure you have the right number and correct pieces for each part.
• Protect the plans --- remember they are full sized --- you can use these again in the future if you wish to scratch build another airplane.
• Read the plans several times to familiarize yourself with everything you are going to be doing. Pay particular attention to any special sequence that the manufacturer recommends.
• Make sure you have all materials on hand ie: Glues, epoxies, fillers; and tools you might need to build the airplane. Tools --- for your first airplanes --- you can get away with a hobby knife with a #11 blade, a small plastic triangle squares, a straight and accurate ruler, a sanding block and of course the sand paper.
• Pick on section on which you wish to start on, then concentrate on that section. ( Many of those who have been building for some time perfer to start with the wings --- but I'd recommend for new builders, start off with tail, fin, elevator and fin assemblies first. This gives you an opportunity to home your skills before the chanalenges of the wing. )
• Always work in an well ventilated space, especially if you are sanding and painting.
• Second C/A glue works extremely well in assembling the airplane. It is easy to use and gives professional results.
• On your first few ships, I'd suggest using SIG super coverite fabric for covering the wings. The fabric is durable and easy to use. This can be picked up at most local hobby shops. Coverite, even though can get to get heavy if loaded up with paint, yield a very strong wing assembly. More resistant to crash damage. Another choice would be the iron on plastic films, but depending on the kit selected, and the wing design, this maynot be a wise choice because plastic shrink on coating don't offer the skin strenght that silkspan or coverite provide.
• Build the plane as accruately as possible. Try to build the wing a straight and flat as possible. A warped wing cause by rushed construction will only lead to frustration when flying the airplane. So take your time, be accurate.
• If the kit is one of your first kits and you are learning to fly. Don't spend a great deal of time making a fancy paint and finish job. Simply get on three or four coats of clear dope, just enough to fuel proof the wood and covering and go out and get flying !!!!
• Need some help on your first flights ... or even during building of the plane .... again that's the beauty of considering becoming a PAMPA member. They provide alot of resources and if you find that there is a PAMPA member living near you. Simply give them a call. Generally you will find we will go out of our way to help and assist.

Tsunami my 1998 Winter Project. Real happy with the results after soom triming. My first ship with all Brodak dope. Hand rubbed ( buffed out ) finish. Scale stunt model of the Tsunami Reno Air Racer. She's powered with a GMA JETT 60 with Windy U custom pipe.

PAMPA

Needs You ..... and You Need PAMPA.

PAMPA - Precision Aerobatics Model Pilots Association

New to CL ? or just returning after too nany years ? PAMPA is the CL Aerobatics connection you cannot do without. PAMPA, founded in 1973, is now the premier special interest group offering the following to C/L Aerobatic fliers worldwide.

Bi-Monthly 100 page plus magazine " Stunt News". Stunt News is unique as it is ny CL modelers for CL modelers. it coveres all skill levels and encourages Juniors and new comers.

Engines • Beginning • Classic and Old Time • Building • Planes • Finishing • Sport Flying • New Product Reviews • Flying • Club Information • Safety • Rules and much much more.

Plus: Lots of neat Products • tee shirts • hats • golf shirts • patches • back issues of Stunt News • Rule Books • Score Sheets • Plans etc. etc.

For further information : http://www.zianet.com/pampaeditor

Or Call or Write :

Shareen Fancher, Secretary, 158 Flying Cloud Isle, Foster City, Ca, 94404, ph (415)345-0130

Also : We make it worth your will to belong to PAMPA. Check out our PAMPA discount. By the time you purchase a kit, possibly and engine and some finishing supplies, we basically pay for your membership.